Into Thin Air Chapter 15-21 (Colonization Theory)

By Chapter 15 of Jon Krakauer's “Into Thin Air” the various climbing teams have begun their descent. There has already been tragedy in the story on the way to the summit, but far from being an afterthought, it is on the trip back down that disaster really sets in. By now we have been introduced to a diverse cast of characters, and in many cases what we know will serve to set the stage for the story of their demise. With a few exceptions however there is one group of climbers, though ever present, appears in Krakauer's recounting under a veil as though they were just another element, along with wind and ice and cold, that one encounters on the face of Everest, the native Sherpa guides.

Krakauer did careful research to, for example, weave accounts of other climbers into a coherent narrative including both the events he personally experienced and those that he wasn't there for. In nearly every instance he includes the names of all the non-native members of the various expeditions including those he did not meet himself. Except for a few individuals he was familiar with such as Lopsang Jangbu and Ang Dorje however, most of the guides are referred to anonymously as simply another Sherpa.

To be fair Krakauer is only following well worn Western conventions here, and any attempt he might make at identifying the various guides involved and exploring their personal histories as he did for the American, European and Japanese climbers would be hampered by those same conventions that throw up barriers, that encourage any particular individual to be thought of as just one of the Sherpas. Among the many criticisms he has about culture and business surrounding the desire to summit Everest Krakauer does not neglect the impact on the local community. He includes the book with a letter from a Sherpa orphan who had both parents die while guiding Everest expeditions. He quotes from this letter:

“My ancestors arrived in the Solo Khumbu region fleeing persecution in the lowlands. They found sanctuary in the shadow of “Sagarmathaji”, “mother goddess of the earth”. In return they were expected to protect that mother goddess' sanctuary from outsiders.

“But they went the other way. They helped outsiders find their way into the sanctuary and violate every limb of her body by standing on top of her, crowing in victory, and dirtying and polluting her bosom.”

(The journey is over!!!!!!)

Into Thin Air: Chapter 8-15 (Archetypal Theory)

It‘s interesting to look at the book from the perspective of Archetypal criticism because the story is not fiction, it is an account of real things that happened to real people told by someone who was a direct participant in the events. The necessity of confining himself to a true accounting of what happens means the author lacks the freedom enjoyed by novelists to craft events and outcomes to suit his purpose, or to foist upon the characters attributes that make it convenient for the reader to identify the role that they must play in the story. This does not mean the story does not contain archetypes, not by any means. The characters set out on a very well defined quest. Their goal is to climb Mount Everest, something that is an archetype unto itself, symbol frequently used for the highest possible achievement. This is the story of the individuals who set out to do this literally, and the real life meaning and consequences that came out of it.

By chapter 8 the real climb has begun and the story is one of daunting obstacles and enduring hardships. It does not take long for the realities of what they are facing to become apparent, first with the discovery of the body of a long lost climber, then with the illness and eventual death of Ngawang, one of the Sherpa guides. Along the way the members of Krakauer's team as well as other groups heading for the summit develop health issues that must be endured. There are accidents and finally one of them claims the life of a member of one of the other teams. That team's leader decision to carry on despite the loss brings the nature of the quest into focus. In stories where there is an enemy that must be vanquished, a kingdom saved or a princess rescued summoning the courage to carry on after such a loss can be seen as heroic. Here it seems more selfish and disrespectful, bringing further question to what the real meaning of the goal they all share and its relation to other values like consideration for others and of life itself.

Krakauer, himself exhausted and enduring great pain, presses on with his teammates to the summit. Reaching the peak of Mount Everest is in popular imagination the quintessential moment of triumph. For Krakauer at least it is nothing like that. There is no ceremony, no triumphal gestures, not even a pause for a few photos. Numbed by hypoxia, feeling only fear over his dwindling supply of oxygen and the dangers yet to be faced on the descent, he spends only moments on the peak other climbers might only dream of ever reaching.